In this post we'll be featuring a bunch of walks we've personally done in the Greater Blue Mountains, an area which extends beyond the villages to the Southern Blue Mountains, outer Mt Victoria, Katoomba, Blackheath and down to Glenbrook. It also takes in Mount Wilson, Upper, Mid and Lower Grose Valley, Jenolan Karst, Wollemi and Kanangra-Boyd NP.
This list will grow as we continue to get out and explore.
There are hundreds of great trails located in the Blue Mountains, making it a true paradise for passionate hikers and casual bushwalkers Not only is the scenery breathtaking but there's so much diversity in the trails. From temperate rainforests and lush dells to groves of scribbly gums, wind-sculpted rock formations, jaw-dropping cliffs, gorges and cascading waterfalls.
The Blue Mountains has rough terrain. However, there's some gradual ongoing reconstruction and trail management to help facilitate pleasant walks and hikes. There will be ups and downs, and that's to be expected given the geography of this region.
It's difficult to choose which trails are the best as every hike is unique in its geography, flora and scenery. Your fitness levels don't need to be super-high with any of them, providing you take your time and don't exert yourself. Having said that, a little fitness and stamina wouldn't go astray.
Being out in the Aussie bush without a map isn't wise, especially in the Blue Mountains. People getting lost happens way too often. When it comes to maps, we use a couple of nifty phone apps. Maps.me is our default go-to. It's free, it's very accurate (much more than Google), it's user-friendly and it doesn't use data. Another good one, which uses the same OpenStreetMap interface as maps.me, is AllTrails. Download them!
1. Butterbox Point & Mount Hay
Distance: 6 km (Butterbox 2 km return), (Mount Hay 4 km return) Difficulty: Easy (Butterbox) Easy to Moderate (Mount Hay) Time Suggested: 2 - 3 hrs (both trails)
Starting From: Mount Hay carpark
Both of these trails start from the Mount Hay carpark, found right at the end of Mount Hay Road which is mostly an unsealed road. The road is about 15 km of gravel, nasty potholes, dust and corrugation and driving along it in a car with higher ground clearance comes highly recommended.
From the carpark, the trail dips along a ridge before you hit an intersection in a few minutes. Go straight and you're on your way to Mount Hay, go left and you're heading to Butterbox Point.
Butterbox Point.
It's pretty obvious the terrain is still recovering from the 2019-2020 fires, so we suggest watching where you step as those little shoots and saplings are desperately trying to re-grow and stay alive. The trail itself is a very easy one to follow. It's rocky, sandy, exposed and windswept, and the sweeping views along the way are seriously impressive.
The trail hits a fork at a wind-eroded cave. This is where you choose your own adventure. Go right and you're in for a very narrow path that comes very close to the cliff edge. Go left and it's smooth walking along the rocky formation to Butterbox Point. Both paths rejoin before the point, so there's no way you'll miss the jaw-dropping views from a precarious ledge overlooking Butterbox Canyon and the Grose Valley.
Mount Hay.
To incorporate Mount Hay into the walk, retrace your steps back to the first intersection, then follow the trail north. The terrain is very open, thanks to the 2020 fires wiping out all vegetation, but once you begin the rocky ascent of Mount Hay the vegetation becomes denser. You're standing on highly fertile soil thanks to the volcanic lava that flowed through here millions of years ago.
The ascent offers some incredible views over Grose Valley, plus some decent outlooks to the east towards Sydney. After some rock scrambling and wondering where the trail disappeared to, the trail reappears. The regrowth as you head up to the summit can be incredibly overgrown, but you know you've hit the summit of Mount Hay (944 m) when you come across a stone cairn. There are no views from the summit, due to the dense bush and the trail vanishing completely, so you may as well head back the way you came.
2. Fortress Rock & Dr Dark's Cave - Greater Blue Mountains
Distance: 4.4 km Difficulty: Easy, Moderate & Hard Time Suggested: 2 hrs
Starting From: Fortress Ridge Trail start, Mt Hay Road
A traverse along an undulating fire trail and bush trail to Fortress Rock is the easy part of this hike, and it can most definitely be done as an individual trail if preferred. However, combining it with a more challenging moderate-to-hard hike to the intriguing Dr Dark's Cave makes it all the more adventurous.
Much of the region was decimated by the 2019/2020 fires and, due to the rocky terrain and lack of topsoil, bush regeneration is a slow process; especially heading down to Fortress Rock. The view is quite something, though.
For Dr Dark's Cave, backtrack about 300 m and take the narrow track on the left. The trail immediately heads downhill through the bush, forcing you to clamber over rocks and tree roots to the creek bed below. It's an 80 m descent from the top trail; steep and taxing on the legs; especially going back up.
It isn't long before you stumble upon Dr Dark's Cave, once a "holiday home" to local Katoomba doctor Eric Dark and his wife Eleanor after they found it in 1937. Much of it is just as they left it - a fireplace, a selection of pots and pans, metal plates, leather shoes and even a backgammon game. For some spectacular views, continue along past the adjacent waterfall to the rocky ledge overlooking Govets Creek, Arthusa Falls and surrounding cliffs. Just watch your step as it could be fatal!
3. Ikara Head Track
Distance: 5.6 km return Difficulty: Easy Time Suggested: 2 hrs
Starting From: Victoria Falls Road
This part of the mountains doesn't get as much attention from hikers as other areas may, which is great as having such beautifully rugged landscape to yourself is an absolute bonus. Asgard Plateau sits near the western edge of Grose Valley, and this is one of a handful of tracks on the plateau itself.
Starting off from Victoria Falls Road, the narrow track winds through bush that clearly got a battering in the 2019/2020 fires. It's a very gradual descent from bush to more open and very rocky heath, and no matter what time of year you may visit, the flora sure puts of a show. Visit in late winter and you'll see many wildflowers and clumps of red grasses growing from the rocky ground.
There's a short and slightly steep side-track down to Girraween Cave and a swamp croaking with frogs. Totally unnecessary, but worth it if you want to cool off in the shade of the "cave" ledge overlooking the swamp. The rest of the main track offers mountain vistas to both sides, and before you know it the track abruptly ends at the spectacular Ikara Head. The Grose River and Valley are below you and cliff faces span for miles.
4. Lockley's Pylon & DuFaur Head Tracks
Distance: 9.4 km return Difficulty: Lockley's Pylon - Easy; DuFaur Head - Moderate to Hard Time Suggested: 2 hrs
Starting From: Mount Hay Road
This corner of the mountains has a bunch of great walks, and this is one of them. If you're after an easy one - with a few nonstrenuous ups and downs - then the return walk to Lockley's Pylon is a goer.
Pretty much all of the walk is through exposed heath, so a hat may be required if the sun gets to you. The views are spectacular in all directions with glimpses all the way to Sydney's skyline in the east.
If you're feeling a little intrepid, take the side-trail from near the pylon summit down and across to DuFaur Head. There are many steps and some scrambling and hoisting yourself up and down rocks, but the views at the end are truly remarkable.
5. Asgard Swamp Track
Distance: 9.1 km return Difficulty: Moderate Time Suggested: 2.5 hrs
Starting From: Victoria Falls Road
This is another one of the lesser-known walks at the western end of Grose Valley. The majority of the track is actually a fire trail which, by general rule in the mountains, aren't all that exciting to walk along.
What sets this fire trail apart from many others is the rocky pagodas and marshy swamps along it. The first side-track you get to leads past a large rock and straight across Asgard Swamp. Not the largest swamp around, but beautiful nonetheless. Try to spot the bright red carnivorous sundews along the track.
Back on the fire trail, the second side-track takes you up Thor Head for impressive views and scary cliff drops. The third side-track leads down to a site highlighted with an old mine shaft and brick kiln. The end of the main fire trail offers jaw-dropping cliff-top views down the Grose and, if you can spot them - Victoria Falls.
6. Ikara Head Trail
Distance: 9.5 km Difficulty: Easy-Moderate Time Suggested: 2.5-3 hrs
Starting From: Victoria Falls Road
Rarely visited by hikers, this two-part track immerses you with rugged bushland, exposted heath and dramatic rock formations. The right fork of the trail has you traversing scrub and rocky, open heath dotted with pagodas. The track dissolves as you near its northern end, but keep on walking across the rocky point as far as you can for great views into the valley.
The left fork of the track takes you down into the swampy and fern-filled gully. Cross the trickling creek and follow it along the cliff base, beneath looming ledges and around the point. Some rock scrambling is required, but it may not be suitable for those with vertigo.
7. Fortress Ridge Track
Distance: 7 km return Difficulty: Easy - Moderate Time Suggested: 2 hrs
Starting From: Mount Hay Road
A relatively easy track that's part fire trail and mostly open track. The walk traverses across exposed heath, with pockets of scrub and rocky outcrops. The views are pretty spectacular, especially when you reach the upper rocky lookout near the end.
The wind was very intense the morning I did it, almost knocking me to the ground in a few places. Had to abort the walk at the second last lookout as the wind gusts were too unpredictable and dangerous, especially with cliff drops so close to the track.
Definitely one worth returning to, especially to get further down past the lookout and closer to where Fortress Creek plunges down the cliff.
8. Blue Gum Swamp & Shaws Ridge Trail Loop
Distance: 14.6 km Difficulty: Moderate Time Suggested: 3 hrs
Starting From: White Cross Road
The expectations are never high when a walk is mainly along a fire trail, but this is one exception to the rule. One kilometre in and the bush is ablaze in late autumn (winter) colour with an impressive array of wildflowers along the ridge trail before it descends into a stunning deep gully 4 km into the walk.
Bees Nest Hill Track diverts to the right and takes you up steep bends to the stunning Grose Head South Lookout, which is worth the leg workout going up. Great spot to sit and have a snack before heading back down and continuing on through the utterly beautiful Blue Gum Swamp with its towering trees and carpet of ferns. Birdsong and the calls of native frogs abound.
Towards the end there is the option to visit The Grotto, but it's nothing more than a slight rock overhang with ferns at its base. Save yourself the 1.6 km diversion and carry on back up to the start.
9. Mount Wilson Rainforest Loop
Distance: 1.2 km Difficulty: Moderate Time Suggested: 40 minutes
Starting From: Waterfall Road
Mount Wilson may be known for its garden estates, especially during autumn, but its Rainforest Loop is definitely worth checking out. Start the walk in the shade of towering coachwood and sassafras trees and gradually descend into temperate rainforest carpeted with ferns and bright green moss.
Admire two waterfalls along the way. The first is Lower Falls, which can be viewed from a fenced-off area, with the larger Upper Falls further along the track. The walk continues a little further before ending back at the carpark.
10. Tessellated Pavements & Rocky Ridge Track
Distance: 9 km Difficulty: Moderate Time Suggested: 3 hrs
Starting From: Mt. Irvine Road
For those that like a bit of adventure, this out-and-back hike gives you a glimpse of the ruggedly beautiful Wollangambe Wilderness north of Mt. Irvine. Drive as far as you can go on the sealed Mt. Irvine Road, let yourself through the right gate (marked with the numbers 282; closing the gate after you. Drive quietly about 50m further and park off the trail by the corrugated metal water tank. This is a fire trail that's also used by residents, so it's ok to use, just don't block it with your car.
The trailhead starts here, so follow the fire trail and track along the ridge through regenerating bush. You'll see plenty of rocky outcrops and weather-sculpted pagodas before arriving at the impressive tessellated pavements; an area of significant importance to the traditional landowners, the Dharug. There are grinding grooves, pots (water holes) and at least one engraving. Look, but don't touch.
Most people head back from this point, but for more adventure head down the tessellate platforms and follow the rocky ridge. The path is barely visible most of the time, so follow your GPS and the map above. Download AllTrails app! The landscape is rugged and beautiful, with many more pagodas. The northern-most part of the walk takes you up and onto an elevated rocky outcrop for stunning views over the tree-tops across deep-cut valleys and into the Wollangambe Wilderness.
11. Jinki Ridge & Wilkinson Hill
Distance: 7 km Difficulty: Moderate Time Suggested: 2.5 hrs
Starting From: Bells Line of Road
Starting on a defined track off Bells Line of Road, the wild Upper Grose landscape presents itself almost immediately. The defined track ends on the Jinki Ridge overlooking a large cluster of pagodas, but follow your GPS and the above map through rugged bush and heath to some damn impressive outlooks above Jungaburra Brook Gorge. Listening to the birds echoing below is magical.
Continue traversing along the ridge to the cliff drop above the Grose River, heading east to view rocky pagodas and sweeping views down the Grose across to Valhalla Head, Thor Head and beyond. Return via Wilkinson Hill and the same route you came down on.
12. Kamarah Gully & Koombanda Ridge
Distance: 11 km Difficulty: Moderate - Hard Time Suggested: 3.5 hrs
Starting From: Darling Causeway
For those that like to rough it a bit and head off-trail, this loop is one to consider. The walk starts at the top of Canyon Colliery Trail, winding down this former coal mining access road to the shady depths of Koombanda Brook. Beautiful views across the Upper Grose on your way down.
Once across the small bridge it's straight into the rugged temperate rainforest, weaving through towering trees and around and over large boulders up Kamarah Gully. Plenty of fallen trees, massive cliffs above, rock ledges and numerous lyrebirds.
The rainforest gives way to tall eucalypts as you exit the gully and ascend Koombanda Ridge, making your way to and follow Bells Line of Road and the railway - the least exciting part of the walk - to your starting point.
13. Engineers Track
Distance: 6 km Difficulty: Moderate - Hard Time Suggested: 3 hrs
Starting From: Darling Causeway
This track, made in 1858/59 as part of a survey for a potential rail route up the Grose Valley, descends through bush from a current railway service track near the Darling Causeway. It's obvious the track barely gets attention from walkers as it is completely overgrown at its western-most point, but faintly appears soon after.
Follow the track down through bushland that has been recently affected by fire, with fallen trees and plenty of regrowth. The feeling of remoteness is more than obvious, and it doesn't take long before you're deep in a rugged gully surrounded by cliffs and rock ledges.
As you come into view of the dramatic Ikara Head, the track pretty much vanishes as you near the beautifully serene upper reaches of Grose River. Follow your GPS and keep your eyes open for painted yellow or white markers on trees. Take a break at the river crossing before heading back.
14. Bald Head via Hat Hill
Distance: 6.5 km Difficulty: Moderate Time Suggested: 2 hrs
Starting From: Hat Hill Road, Blackheath
Explore a region which was decimated by the 2019/2020 fires, but is well on the mend. Start off with 360 degree views from the top of Hat Hill then descend along Bald Head Ridge across rocky, open heath and more closed-in scrub.
Track visibility is patchy at the 2.7 km point as you make your way down the rocky ridge, but follow the cairn markers and GPS for guidance. Nothing to worry about as the track reappears after 10 metres, or so.
There's one final ascent as you arrive at Bald Head with its magnificent views over the Upper Grose Valley, east to Mount Banks and Mount Hay, and west to Burramoko Head and protruding Hanging Rock.
15. Hat Hill Canyon Exit Track
Distance: 5.9 km Difficulty: Hard Time Suggested: 2 hrs
Starting From: Hat Hill Road, Blackheath
This track starts out the same as the previous hike to Bald Head, but branches off midway via a seldom-used faint track to Hat Hill Creek; generally just used by canyoners. Ignore the out-and-back diversion I did just after entering this track, as that was an exploratory exercise of track remnants I spotted on Google satellite view.
The Exit Track begins to dissolve as you descend the rocky ridge, so you need to rely on your bushwalking smarts and sharp eye to see where the track should be; and the map on your phone. There are some small stone cairns along the way, but someone has kindly put up pink ribbons here-and-there to mark the way; even if this (northern) leg of the path doesn't follow the original one.
Things begin to get interesting and rather beautiful as you walk down the steep grade past intricate pagodas and deep gully through high cliffs to the creek below. Burned-out trees with epicormic growth give way to tall tree ferns, mossy boulders and a virtual oasis down at Hat Hill Creek. The scenery is so enchanting with sandy beaches, ochre-coloured rocks and crystal clear water running over them; all in the dappled shade of towering trees and looming cliffs. Take a break, explore a little and soak it all in as the walk back out is the hard part.
16. Hat Hill Canyon Entry Track
Distance: 4.3 km Difficulty: Hard Time Suggested: 2 hrs
Starting From: Godson Avenue, Blackheath
The previous hike explored Hat Hill Canyon Exit Track, this one gets you onto the Entry Track a little further southwest on Hat Hill Creek. Follow an easy fire trail down the ridge before it gives way to a narrow, rocky and slightly more challenging track down to the creek.
The path vanishes once you're down there, due to previous flooding, but follow the obvious route, being the creek and any visible (and safe) walking "paths". Just use commonsense, watch your step and don't go stomping on any plants that are trying to grow in this rugged environment.
The canyon does form a virtual bottleneck along the creek where you can no longer walk, with dry feet, that is. The narrow chasm is where you'd continue if you were a canyoner with the right gear; slipping on a wetsuit and any safety accessories. For those that are less intrepid, enjoy the utterly beautiful location and make your way back up the ridge to the left fork on the track to a rocky ridge-top overlooking the canyon walls and creek below.
17. Pierces Pass Track & Rigby Hill
Distance: 7.1 km Difficulty: Moderate to Hard Time Suggested: 3.5 hrs
Starting From: Pierces Pass Road
This hike kicks off with a 40 minute return walk to Rigby Hill for spectacular views over Grose Valley. Once back at the carpark, Pierces Pass Track starts virtually at the same spot. Wooden steps lead you down through dry rocky scrub, which soon gives way to more dense, cool temperate forest.
Ferns and mossy rocks are a welcoming sight and the sound of Pierces Creek joins the calls of many birds. The vegetation changes yet again as the track swings out of the shared gully and onto the wooded slope between high cliff above and Grose River below.
The descent can get a little hard on the legs as you hit the 4 km mark, but the terrain flattens as you arrive at Grose River. Those that wish can carry on taking tracks up or down the river, or simply U-turn and head back up the hill.
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