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Writer's pictureJohn Bek

Hiking in the Upper Blue Mountains

Updated: Jan 2, 2022


Wentworth Falls from Rocket Point

The Upper Mountains takes in the area between Wentworth Falls and Mt Victoria. This is where the majority of visitors come, due to its more popular villages of Leura and Katoomba. Here you'll find the Three Sisters, the biggest waterfalls, the most dramatic cliff-drops and some very impressive walks.


This list will grow as we continue to get out and explore.

 

There are hundreds of great trails located in the Blue Mountains, making it a true paradise for passionate hikers and casual bushwalkers Not only is the scenery breathtaking but there's so much diversity in the trails. From temperate rainforests and lush dells to groves of scribbly gums, wind-sculpted rock formations, jaw-dropping cliffs, gorges and cascading waterfalls.


The Blue Mountains has rough terrain. However, there's some gradual ongoing reconstruction and trail management to help facilitate pleasant walks and hikes. There will be ups and downs, and that's to be expected given the geography of this region.


It's difficult to choose which trails are the best as every hike is unique in its geography, flora and scenery. Your fitness levels don't need to be super-high with any of them, providing you take your time and don't exert yourself. Having said that, a little fitness and stamina wouldn't go astray.



Being out in the Aussie bush without a map isn't wise, especially in the Blue Mountains. People getting lost happens way too often. When it comes to maps, we use a couple of nifty phone apps. Maps.me is our default go-to. It's free, it's very accurate (much more than Google), it's user-friendly and it doesn't use data. Another good one, which uses the same OpenStreetMap interface as maps.me, is AllTrails. Download them!


 

1. The Grand Canyon - Blackheath

Distance: 6.3 km loop Difficulty: Moderate Time Suggested: 2 - 3.5 hrs

Starting From: Grand Canyon Loop carpark, Evans Lookout Road

Imposing sandstone walls, waterfalls and abundant native plants line the awesome Grand Canyon track near Blackheath in the Blue Mountains. The historic loop track takes you into the heart of this World Heritage-listed landscape. It's an intimate and adventurous track that walkers have trodden since 1907.


Setting out from Evans lookout, the well-shaded track meanders through verdant native vegetation of ferns and golden wattles and remains close to Greaves Creek, all of which combine to make this a particularly good walk for the summer months. Not that it's somewhere to avoid in winter!

Although there are loads of semi-ledges that make up this slightly challenging walk, you don’t need specialist hiking or abseiling equipment, so comfortable hiking shoes are all you’ll need to get out there and explore. It can get boggy in parts, but overall it's a very doable walk. Just be prepared for many stairs!


However, it's so popular that crowds can be an issue. If you can't walk this one mid-week, we'd highly suggest doing it early in the morning or later in the day.

 

2. Minnehaha Falls - North Katoomba

Distance: 2.5 km return Difficulty: Easy, with some steep steps and ladders Time Suggested: 45 - 60 minutes

Starting From: Minnehaha Reserve carpark

Having special significance for first nations Darug and Gundungarra women and rumoured to be bottomless when the spot became popular with Europeans in the 1890s, Minnehaha Falls is set in a seriously dramatic location.


Hiking down to Minnehaha is a pleasure, even if there are some rock-hewn and metal stairs to contend with. Nothing to get concerned about. Follow the trail through the reserve along the trickling Yosemite Creek, past hanging swamps (which contribute to the year-round water supply) and through heath and beautiful bushland.


The descent is quick and painless and, before you know it, you're at the bottom. This is where the ice-cold, emerald-green waters greet you at the base of the 50-metre falls. Take a dip, if you're game, or sit and appreciate the beauty.

 

3. Walls Cave Track - Blackheath

Distance: 1.9 km return Difficulty: Moderate Time Suggested: 1 hr

Starting From: End of Walls Cave Road

The highlight on this walk is undoubtedly the slot canyon formed over millennia by the meandering Greaves Creek, but that's not to say the cave - or more of a large rocky overhang - isn't worth walking to. The trail begins with a gradual descent down many, many steps through eucalypt bushland, but it soon opens onto beautiful heath where you get your first glimpse of Walls Cave below.


The cave itself has special significance to the first custodians of this land - the Darug People - so when approaching the cave at the end of the trail, it's advised to stay within the fenced-off area within the cave.


Backtrack to where the trail branches to the left and scramble your way over and around the boulders down to Greaves Creek and into the seriously impressive slot canyon. Such a photogenic place!


Note: This track has been closed for some time, so check this website for up-to-date info.

 

4. Wentworth Pass - Wentworth Falls

Distance: 5.5 km Difficulty: Hard Time Suggested: 2.5 - 3 hrs

Starting From: Wentworth Falls Lookout

Here's one for those that like their waterfalls, cliffs and challenging stairs. Wentworth Pass would have to be the best in the Wentworth Falls area, and it's no wonder why. After crossing Jamison Creek and taking in the Queen's Cascades and nearby Weeping Rock, things immediately become dramatic. The trail is carved from the cliff face and quickly drops down via steep stairs, with the majestic Wentworth Falls to your right and Jamison Valley below you.


Stop for a while at the mid-falls to take in their utter beauty, then carry on through the bush and down a series of metal ladders. Dense forest surrounds you for quite some time as you head into Valley of the Waters Creek terrain, appreciate its gloriousness and listen to the birdlife. Push on to ascend from the valley along a series of waterfalls. Red Rock, Brittania, Flat Rock, Ladore and Sylvia Falls. Then the mother of them all - Empress Falls.


Once back almost at the top, you're traversing the Short Cut Track back to where you began.

 

5. Castle Head - Katoomba

Distance: 4.3 km Difficulty: Easy Time Suggested: 75 mins

Starting From: Glenraphael Drive

A very easy walk that starts from the carpark at the gate on Glenraphael Drive on Narrow Neck plateau. Simply jump the gate and follow the fire trail then, after about 800 m, veer off to the left at the marked trail which is clearly signposted. Ignore the 2 hr time and "hard" suggestions on the signpost as it's beyond inaccurate!


This section is an easy walk through bushland dotted with grass trees and banksia. The trail descends onto some steps, offering views to the east to Katoomba and the Three Sisters. Keep walking through regenerating heath, which is doing very well since being wiped out by the 2019/2020 fires. Before you know it you're at Castle Head, offering superb views over Jamieson Valley and Cedar Valley; with Ruined Castle sitting below and Mount Solitary just beyond it.

 

6. Ruined Castle - Katoomba

Distance: 7.9 km return Difficulty: Hard Time Suggested: 3-4 hrs

Starting From: Golden Stairs, Glenraphael Drive

This trail - one of the most iconic in the region - takes in some of the best that the Blue Mountains can offer. Cliffs, expansive views, lush temperate rainforest and beautiful flora.


The descent from the start at Glenraphael Drive, via the Golden Staircase, is pretty much immediate. If it wasn't for this section of clambering down slippery rock-hewn steps, twisted tree roots and metal ladders, the trail wouldn't be getting a "hard" grading. The challenge is having to clamber back up the Golden Staircase to finish.


Once down the staircase, it's a very easy and incredibly enjoyable traverse along Federal Pass in the shadow of cliffs through temperate rainforest, coachwood and gum tree forest peppered with giant tree ferns. There are more steps on the Ruined Castle approach, but they're very well constructed and easy to navigate.


Ruined Castle is a monolithic outcrop of massive boulders; remnants of the immense plateau that once joined Narrow Neck to Mount Solitary millions of years ago. Scramble your way to the top for some rather impressive views, or turn around to retrace your steps back towards the Golden Staircase.

 

7. Mount Elphinstone Circuit - Katoomba

Distance: 6 km return Difficulty: Easy Time Suggested: 1.5 hrs

Starting From: Pulpit Hill Road, Katoomba

One of the easiest walks you could do on this list. The majority of the trail is in well-shaded bush, with towering eucalypt and pine trees overhead. Plenty of birdlife to be heard and seen and spots of colour from a variety of wildflowers.


The highlights would have to be the few diversions to viewpoints at the rocky heads. The first is at the beginning of the trail, overlooking the edge of Katoomba. The other two have sweeping views across Megalong Valley; the third being at Megalong Head which also has distant views to Narrow Neck.

 

8. Rocket Point & Little Switzerland Trail Circuit - Wentworth Falls

Distance: 3.9 km return Difficulty: Easy Time Suggested: 1.5 hrs

Starting From: Falls Road, Wentworth Falls

This circuit takes in the iconic sights of Wentworth Falls, Jamison Valley and Mount Solitary and can be easily done within a couple of hours.


Start the walk at Falls Road and take in the short Weeping Rock circuit before dropping down to Jamison Creek and crossing the pool at the base of Queen's Cascade. Veer off to the left up an undulated rocky track through scrub, then onto Chester Fire Trail. Take a right just before the gate, down a narrow path through dense heath filled with banksia and shrubby she-oak.


Traverse the top of the cliff-line, stopping at rocky outcrops to take in the incredible panoramas before arriving at Rocky Point Lookout for birds-eye views of Wentworth Falls and then completing the circuit.

 

9. Coachwood Glen Nature Trail - Blackheath

Distance: 800 m Difficulty: Easy Time Suggested: 45 mins

Starting From: Megalong Road

For one of the most accessible pockets of dense rainforest the mountains has to offer, you couldn't go past this utterly beautiful spot on the descent to Megalong Valley. It never gets busy along this nature trail so you're almost always guaranteed to not see another person.


The trail immerses you into dark, cool rainforest the moment you step from the carpark, with towering coachwood and sassafras trees overhead. Meandering towards Pulpit Hill Creek you tread on damp ground littered with mossy stones and twisted tree roots then, after crossing the creek, you enter a more light-filled forest of mountain ash trees and ferns.


The short trail returns to and crosses back over the creek into a dell of tree ferns, hanging vines and the calls of native birds. For an effortless plunge into exquisite ancient forest, look no further. It's especially beautiful during, or just after rain as the variety of fungus is extraordinary.

 

10. Mount Piddington Caves Circuit - Mount Victoria

Distance: 7.9 km Difficulty: Moderate - Hard Time Suggested: 4.5 hrs

Starting From: Mount Piddington Road

One of the bigger hikes we've done is this one up at Mount Victoria which takes in a bunch of caves along its rugged path. Starting at Mount Piddington, the track winds its way down a bush ridge into a shaded temperate forest before arriving at Cox's Cave.


Pushing on, the track (Dunn's Leap Track) from this point to Horne Point is very much an overgrown, bush-bashing exercise of ducking through fallen trees and relying on pink-ribbon markers to see where the track is. It's very easy to go off-course here as the track vanishes many times.


Once past Horne Point it's a much easier walk along the top of cliffs and dropping into beautiful temperate rainforest dells, a few more caves and then an ascent through rocky bushland back to the beginning.


If we were to shorten this hike and only do a part of it, we'd suggest starting at Mount Piddington and taking Horne Point Fire Trail down to Horne Point. Then take the steps down to the first junction, taking the right path and following it up to Ross Cave Track. From here just make a left and follow the circuit on the Pulpit Rock side. This circuit is 6 km and takes 2.5 hrs, eliminating the overgrown Cox's Cave Track. Map below.

 

11. Nature Track - Wentworth Falls

Distance: 2.3 km return Difficulty: Easy Time Suggested: 1.5 hrs

Starting From: Bate Street

Aside from a bunch of steps, this short walk is an easy one; and we're pretty generous in saying you'll need 1.5 hrs for it as you could definitely do it in an hour if you don't hang about the waterfalls and Lilliens Glen.


It's a gradual descent from West/Bate Street through bushland and heath, with a very short diversion to Edinburgh Castle Rock. Nice views from here over the treetops to Jamison Valley in the distance. Carry on down the ridge into fern-filled Lillien's Glen where you have two waterfalls to see.


To the right is easily-accessible Flora's Bath, and to the to the left is the more concealed Asmodeus Pool. The latter is a hidden gem which even many locals are unaware of. Once you've crossed the stepping stones over the creek you'll see a sign on your right where the steps head left. Head past that sign off the track and follow the creek bank to the right. Scramble up the rocks to where you can hear a waterfall. This is Asmodeus Pool.


There is another pool in the vicinity a little further down Valley of the Waters Creek, though it's more for canyoners due to it being in a narrow chasm. Still, you can carefully hop across rocks in the creek into the start of the chasm an take a peek down at the pool. Very pretty!

 

12. Water Nymphs Dell - Wentworth Falls

Distance: 3.4 km return Difficulty: Moderate Time Suggested: 1 hr

Starting From: Glenview Road

This is one of the less-visited gems in the Upper Mountains, one we've done numerous times, and it can be done in about an hour. We usually just do an in-and-out walk from Glenview Road to the dell, but here we've also suggested a circuit where you exit the dell up through bushland to Railway Parade, then walk the streets back to the starting point.


The descent from the starting point is immediate, through some scrub and then straight into dark and cool rainforest. The path is mixture of (often slippery) rock and tree root trip-hazards before levelling off when you traverse a rock ledge straight to the waterfall.


Takes a load off at the bench seat overlooking the falls, carry on through the ferns (watch out for leeches!) and walk behind the falls. You can walk down to the sandy pool from just past the falls for a better view, or carry on along and beneath the rock ledge to exit the dell up rambling steps to Railway Parade.

 

13. Henson Glen & Govetts Leap Creek - Leura

Distance: 5.1 km return Difficulty: Easy Time Suggested: 2 hrs

Starting From: Mount Hay Road

Follow the steep, rocky fire trail from Mount Hay Road down into an expansive hanging swamp. Ignore the overhead powerlines at the start! Once you've crossed the creek in the swamp, be sure to take the short diversion down into the swamp to see a lovely waterfall plunging off a rocky ledge.


The walk then takes your through dry sclerophyll forest, open heath and down to Govets Creek and Henson Glen. Due to previous flooding, the track does vanish at this point, but continue along the creek through a gully surrounded by high rock ledges. Plenty of places to take a dip, if you wish, before heading back.

 

14. King's Tableland Aboriginal Place - Wentworth Falls

Distance: 4.7 km return Difficulty: Easy Time Suggested: 1.5-2 hrs

Starting From: Tableland Road

This walk starts out through open heath with views southeast to the lower mountains, and beyond. Pass through scrub before crossing a small, grassy creek then up to Ingar Road, which has been closed to public vehicles for quite some time now.


Take in the views from King's Table rest area, which is nothing more than a wooden bench, then duck back into the scrub via a rocky track up to the large rock platform used as an Aboriginal gathering place for more than 14,000 years. The area is steeped in history and heritage, but sadly its ancient art is fading and grinding grooves and engravings have been damaged.


The sandstone platform is peppered with numerous water pots and grinding grooves, and its adjacent rock ledge shelter has barely-visible emu footprint etchings. Occupation of the shelter has been dated back to 22,000 years.


We strongly urge any visitor to show utmost respect to the site. Keep to the tracks, don't touch the art, etchings or grinding grooves. This site continues to be part of a living culture and needs to be preserved.

 

15. Furber Steps & Scenic Walkway - Katoomba

Distance: 4.3 km Difficulty: Easy to Moderate Time Suggested: 1.5 hrs

Starting From: Katoomba Falls Road

This moderately easy walk takes in the iconic views of the Three Sisters, Mount Solitary and Jamison Valley as you descend Furber Steps. The beautiful temperate rainforest at the start gives way to vertigo-inducing vistas and a magnificent view to Katoomba Falls.


Once at the bottom of the steps, it's an easy traverse past old mining relics, information boards and sculptures by the Scenic Railway to the Scenic Walkway. This elevated boardwalk loop takes you through lovely temperate rainforest with plenty of signage about local flora and fauna and benches to sit and relax.


The return walk takes you back up Furber Steps, but if you're not up for the workout, pay to take the Scenic Railway or Scenic Cableway back up to the top.

 

16. Valley of the Waters & Gladstone Pass Circuit - Leura

Distance: 7.9 km Difficulty: Hard Time Suggested: 4 hrs

Starting From: Fairmont Place, Leura

This is a walk that starts out easy and gradually becomes harder as you progress. It all begins on the Grand Cliff Top Track which straddles the Fairmont Resort and golf course. The easy run continues down through bush to the Valley of the Waters Creek footbridge, following the course of the creek below cliffs and amongst beautiful temperate rainforest. Isobel, Empress, Sylvia and Lodore Falls present themselves as you make your way down the cool gully.


Once past the falls you're onto Vera Falls Track for a bit before making a sharp hook to the right onto Roberts Pass. There's a good deal of uphill zig-zags before the track flattens somewhat as it follows the V-shaped Inspiration Point cliff base through bush, clambering over rocks and through boggy areas.


Once you hit the scree of a recent avalanche, it's a quick crossing of that obstacle, then another smaller land slip. This is the tricky bit, and one which is suitable for experienced bushwalkers only. The track vanishes for a while, so you may find yourself scrambling around through unmarked and relatively steep, slippery terrain to try to find the track again. You can see on my AllTrails map at Waymarker 1 where I lost course and somehow ended up below where the track is.


Once past this section, the not-so-visible track hooks to the north along Gladstone Pass. This last leg is one that has you relying on your GPS and sporadic ribbon markers on trees. It's all up steep hill, clambering over roots, creek crossings, hoisting up rocks using ropes and thriving off the adventure.

 

17. Katoomba Falls Reserve (Night-lit Walk) - Katoomba

Distance: 1.9 km Difficulty: Easy Time Suggested: 1 hr

Starting From: Cliff Drive, Katoomba

Katoomba Falls Reserve is one of the easiest walks you could do due to its well-paved and decked path and close proximity to Katoomba's major sights. This also means it's very popular, so expect to share it with many people, no matter what time of the day you visit.


Come sundown, it also becomes Katoomba's Night Walk with over a kilometre of track illuminated until 10.30pm. It's a beautiful way to witness the bush and its spectacular geography after the sun has set and dark shadows and nocturnal animals emerge.


To experience the Night Walk with fewer other people, we suggest doing it mid-week.




























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